< Back to Journal

Norse and Viking

Delighting in great feedback!

Today, my husband Chris came home with a back issue of Current Archaeology magazine, issue 365, August 2020. He showed me page 6. My heart leapt. Cathy Rozel Farnworth from Cornwall had written: "A word of delight for the wonderful article on runes in the Neolithic Maeshowe chambered tomb on Orkney in Current Archaeology 361 by Ragnhild Ljosland. This article was an expert blend of detailed research and informed speculation, and it was wonderful to read of the great variety of runic texts - humour as often as religious inscription. It was really good, too, to see someone paying serious attention to the women's likely involvement in writing runes." Cathy R. Farnworth goes on to make the suggestion that perhaps those who broke into Maeshowe in the 1150s were inspired by tombs...

Read More
Runestone from Breckness, near Stromness, Orkney

Runes: How can you tell if it’s a genuine runic inscription?

Runes - How can you tell if it's the real thing?  How can you tell if something you have found is an authentic runic inscription? When I get sent pictures of stones with lines that look like runes on them, people often ask me if it's the genuine article or not.  To find out, I first ask myself: Is it natural? Because quite often you can get natural fissures in stones that make them look like incised lines. Look for example as this stone here: [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="960"] Stone found by Sheila Cameron, Sanday, Orkney.[/caption] This picture was posted by Sheila Cameron on Facebook. She found this stone at Start Point in Sanday and kept it for decades! It is so beautiful, and she observed that this vertical line, or stave, as it's called in runology, has an X on it and then something that looks like a cross to the left of it. The stave with the x...

Read More
Detail of the exquisite carved cross decoration on the Flotta Stone Pictish altar front.

Sssh, don’t tell – Flotta is our secret!

[vc_row][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_custom_heading text="Flotta: A hidden gem among the Orkney Islands!"][vc_column_text]Coming to Orkney on holiday and want to go island hopping, but not quite sure which island to go to? Here's somewhere out of the ordinary: Try Flotta! It is a seriously underrated Orkney island, but has a lot to offer. Many people wouldn't think of going there, because it is best known for its oil terminal - Think of the film "Local Hero", which was inspired by Flotta's oil story. For a hilarious insider's view of the building of the oil terminal, though, I would recommend Davie Sinclair's comedy novel "Willick o Pirliebraes". However, there is much more to Flotta than oil! I often go to Flotta to visit family there, and I always have a great time. One time we were...

Read More
St Magnus Orkney ruby chocolate is edible archaeology, and takes its design from the magnificent Norse 12th century cathedral, St Magnus in Kirkwall, Orkney Islands.

New: St Magnus Orkney RUBY chocolate

[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]"St Magnus Orkney" is the new chocolate in our edible archaeology product selection. It takes its beautiful design from a consecration cross carved into the old red sandstone of the magnificent 12th century Norse cathedral, St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall, Orkney. The original carving is to be found on the wall above where the shrine with the relics of St Magnus once stood, and not far from the pillar where Magnus's bones are now hidden in a secret chamber. Ruby is a brand new type of chocolate that only became available on the market last year. It tastes brilliant and looks beautiful - Perfect for portraying the warm red sandstone of St Magnus Cathedral! I am launching this in April 2019 to celebrate our Orkney patron saint, Magnus, who died c. 1117 on...

Read More
Looking into Skara Brae house 1, Skaill, Orkney

Archaeology in Orkney: What should I see? Handy map and bucket list

[vc_row row_type="row" use_row_as_full_screen_section="no" type="full_width" oblique_section="no" text_align="left" css_animation="" box_shadow_on_row="no"][vc_column width="2/3"][vc_column_text css=""]Are you coming to Orkney? Are you keen to see archaeology? Orkney is fantastic for archaeology! It's difficult to choose what to see or where to go. Therefore, I have helped you out with this handy map (link at the bottom). I would be happy to guide you, or you can visit on your own. Some sites are free, some are ticketed, some are open and freely accessible all the time, while others are archaeological excavations that are only open as long as the archaeologists are working there. Below is a quick list. Digs: Ness of Brodgar - Neolithic. The most spectacular and world renowned! Must not miss this! Dig active from early July to mid August. The Cairns: Iron Age broch and surrounding buildings, and...

Read More
Helmet and heraldic shield, believed to be that of Karl Knutsson Bonde.

When walls talk: The medieval and post-medieval graffiti of Nidaros Cathedral, Trondheim, Norway

[vc_row][vc_column width="2/3"][vc_custom_heading text="Introduction to Nidaros Cathedral, Trondheim and its relationship with St Magnus Cathedral, Orkney"][vc_column_text]Transcript of a public talk given to Orkney Archaeology Society, 27th November 2018. By Dr Ragnhild Ljosland Graffiti is so exciting because the walls talk to us, and by looking for and recording the graffiti, we are finally listening to them! Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, Norway, is more or less contemporary with St Magnus Cathedral, and was its mother church in the sense that St Magnus Cathedral lay under the Archdiocese of Nidaros from its inception in 1153 until it was passed over to St Andrews in 1470 ...

Read More
Martyrdom of St Magnus, re-enacted, April 2017, Egilsay, Orkney, for Magnus 900.

Why did Lifolf the cook cry?

[vc_row row_type="row" use_row_as_full_screen_section="no" type="full_width" oblique_section="no" text_align="left" css_animation="" box_shadow_on_row="no"][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_single_image image="418" img_size="large" add_caption="yes" qode_css_animation=""][vc_single_image image="883" img_size="large" add_caption="yes" qode_css_animation=""][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text]Why did Lifolf the earl's cook cry? Male tears and changing masculine ideals in Orkneyinga Saga. Big Viking boys don't cry In saga literature, real men don't cry. Not even as they are being assassinated, or their entire family are being burnt to death in their house. Mocking men for crying is a bit of a theme in Njal's saga, which by many is regarded as the greatest saga ever. The hero, Gunnar, is at one point the victim of a rumour claiming that he cried during an assault. This angers him so much that he seeks out the rumour mongers and launches an attack worthy of any action movie. Towards the end of the same saga,...

Read More
Viking Hiking day trip to Hoy. Travel with the Vikings and enjoy a Viking feast on the beach at Rackwick

Day trip to Hoy with the Vikings, the moon is coming to Stromness, and other things to do in Orkney in late August and early September

[vc_row row_type="row" use_row_as_full_screen_section="no" type="full_width" oblique_section="no" text_align="left" css_animation="" box_shadow_on_row="no"][vc_column][vc_column_text]What to do in Orkney in August/September? It's late in the summer, but many visitors find that Orkney is just as beautiful in the shoulder season - This is also when the community wakes up again after the summer holidays, and things start getting busy with festivals, concerts and other happenings. So here is a quick guide to what you can do if you are in Orkney in the last week of August or the first two weeks of September 2018.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row row_type="row" use_row_as_full_screen_section="no" type="full_width" oblique_section="no" text_align="left" css_animation="" box_shadow_on_row="no"][vc_column width="1/4"][vc_single_image image="1223" img_size="large" qode_css_animation=""][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_custom_heading text="Viking Hiking day trip to the island of Hoy" link="url:http%3A%2F%2Fbrodgar.co.uk%2Fevent%2Fviking-hiking-full-day-29-8%2F|||"][vc_column_text]When: Wednesday 29th August, 9.30 am - 5 pm What: A Viking themed day on the island of Hoy! This is Orkney's...

Read More
Viking Chocolate: Thor's Hammer. Made in dark chocolate. Part of the Viking Hoard chocolate box by Brodgar Archaeological Chocolate.

Thor’s Hammer

[vc_row][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_single_image image="990" img_size="large" alignment="center"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text] Dark chocolate Thor's Hammer This dark chocolate Thor's Hammer is part of the Viking Hoard box, which you can find in many of the sets in our web shop. I made it in dark chocolate because Thor is the god of thunder, riding his chariot through the dark clouds and striking lightning with his hammer. Thor is a protector against chaos. He is often seen travelling to the outermost edges of the world, where he challenges giants and other chaotic forces. It is said that his hammer has crushed many a giant's skull. Thor was a god that you could trust if you were a viking farmer, and you relied on rain and predictable weather for your crops to grow.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_single_image image="977" img_size="large" add_caption="yes" alignment="center"][vc_single_image image="983" img_size="large" add_caption="yes"][/vc_column][vc_column...

Read More
Chocolate Viking Hoard: Viking Sun Disc and Loki Mask made in chocolate. The Brodgar Chocolate Viking Hoard contains 7 pieces, in milk and dark chocolate: 1 Trefoil Brooch, 2 Sun Discs, 2 Thor's Hammers and 2 Loki Masks. Each is a chocolate replica of real Viking jewellery, made in collaboration with Nordens Historiska Fynd. Photo credit: Asgard.

Up Helly Aa special

[vc_row][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_single_image image="767" img_size="large" add_caption="yes"][vc_single_image image="770" img_size="large" add_caption="yes"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text] Up Helly Aa special Join us in celebrating Up Helly Aa, the Shetland winter fire festival! If you buy any of our Viking chocolates in January or February, I will include your name written out in runes for you. What is Up Helly Aa? Up Helly Aa is a winter fire festival celebrated in Shetland. Different districts in Shetland have their own local festival at slightly different times, but they all happen around this time of year, January-February time. The best known is the Lerwick Up Helly Aa, which is celebrated on the last Tuesday of January, this year on the 30/1. On this day, hundreds and hundreds of Shetland men go on a fancy-dress torch-lit procession through the streets, led by the Guizer Jarl and...

Read More
Lines in sandstone caused by natural weathering. Despite the visual similarity they are not runes.

Layers of sand, layers of history

[vc_row row_type="row" use_row_as_full_screen_section="no" type="full_width" oblique_section="no" text_align="left" css_animation="" box_shadow_on_row="no"][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_single_image image="798" img_size="medium" add_caption="yes" qode_css_animation=""][vc_single_image image="797" img_size="medium" add_caption="yes" qode_css_animation=""][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text css=""] Beach combing in Burray Burray is an exciting place for beach combers: Along a wide, beautifully arched bay, the layers of history are as evident at the layers of sand. At one end of the bay is the old parish church, a bit further on is a big old farm with a Georgian period farmhouse. It has clearly been prime farmland and a site of some importance since the Middle Ages at least, because Pictish and Norse artefacts have been found there, including an amazing little human figure depicted on bone. Is it runes? From the beach, I picked up a beautiful sandstone with parallel, vertical lines on it. It is of the same kind that...

Read More
St Magnus Way: Across the Orphir hills in sleet and snow, December 2017. The sun glowing golden on the horizon over Scapa Flow between sleety showers.

A pilgrimage in sleet

[vc_row row_type="row" use_row_as_full_screen_section="no" type="full_width" oblique_section="no" text_align="left" css_animation="" box_shadow_on_row="no"][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_single_image image="759" img_size="large" add_caption="yes" qode_css_animation=""][vc_single_image image="365" img_size="large" add_caption="yes" qode_css_animation=""][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text css=""] Firth and Orphir on a December day Chris and I have been trying, throughout the year, to complete the St Magnus Way - the 55 mile long new pilgrimage route leading to the St Magnus Cathedral. While walking leg leading from Finstown on the Bay of Firth to Orphir, as I did today, we think of Hakon Palsson, Earl of Orkney, and the theme of forgiveness. Hakon was the first cousin of Saint Magnus, co-earl and later rival, and the one who ordered Magnus's murder in 1117, nine hundred years ago. How did he feel afterwards? While Orkneyinga Saga gives us no direct insight into his feelings, it does say that Hakon went on to travel...

Read More
Brodgar Archaeological Chocolate is now in William Shearer's very special Christmas shop, Kirkwall.

Chocolate archaeology for Christmas

[vc_row][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_single_image image="563" img_size="large" add_caption="yes" alignment="center" style="vc_box_shadow_border"][/vc_column][vc_column width="1/2"][vc_column_text] Christmas at Kirkness & Gorie Kirkness and Gorie is a very old family run shop in Kirkwall, specialising in good wine, good cheese and good food, and therefore the ideal place to find Christmas gifts. Ingrid and Duncan, the owners, have supported Brodgar Archaeological Chocolate from the start in 2016 and Kirkness & Gorie was indeed the first shop to stock our chocolate archaeology. Their family owns the land where the Ness of Brodgar archaeological site was found, and the Neolithic artwork from there has also inspired Ingrid's mother Ola Gorie, the jewellery designer. Kirkness & Gorie now stocks almost the full range of our chocolates: Ness of Brodgar designs, Viking ships, various varieties of the Viking whalebone plaque from Sanday, and Viking gold and...

Read More
Ellen Forkin in a festive mood at Skate Rumple Festive Shop, Deerness.

Viking Chocolate now available at Skate Rumple

[vc_row][vc_column width="2/3"][vc_column_text] Skate Rumple Alpaca farm in Deerness is one of my absolute favourite places in Orkney. The alpacas, goats, pigs and other animals are super cute, and the family who run it, Mandy, Nick and Ellen, are so great at making people feel welcome. I always come away from there smiling, having had some good full-on belly laughs. It's the sort of place where you can hear bizarre stories such as the one I heard this morning - Nick: "And as the delivery van came, and the man opened the doors and took the box out, two goats went in!" Today was the opening of their annual Festive Shop. It's so cozy, with a classic Christmas tree, sugar canes, always hot tea and coffee and home bakes on the go. It's...

Read More
The Round Kirk, Orphir. 12th Century. Believed to have been commissioned by Earl Hakon Palsson, killer of St Magnus, after a pilgrimage to Jerusalem.

We found a stone dish on the beach today

Today was the first day you could really feel the sun warming your face again, so it seems we are now through the deepest of winter. Chris and I took our boys to the beach below The Bu in Orphir today -- the site of Earl Hakon Palsson's round church and formerly also a Viking drinking hall, although little is visible of it now. [caption id="attachment_365" align="alignnone" width="300"] The Round Kirk, Orphir.[/caption] There has been a lot of coastal erosion below the Bu site, so in a way we were not surprised to find things there. Chris found a beautiful, tiny piece of pottery, showing some thin lines of decoration. One of our boys found a "necked stone" although it might be natural. And I, Raggie, found a beautiful stone dish, which...

Read More

The Hogboon of Helliehow

On impulse, we took the ferry out to Sanday, but quickly discovered that 24 hours was nowhere near enough time to explore everything we wanted to see there. One thing I wanted to explore in particular, was Helliehow up in the north end of Sanday. I have been into mound folklore lately, especially those stories which were widespread in Orkney in the past about mounds being inhabited by a type of creature known as the Hogboon or Hogboy. Helliehow in Sanday is one of these. The name intrigues me: It seems to mean holy mound in Old Norse. The Hogboon also comes from Norse folklore, and was originally an ancestor spirit. However, through the Medieval period it was transformed into more of a supernatural guardian of the mound, sometimes defending a...

Read More

Castle of the rune stone

27 Feb 2016 [caption id="attachment_238" align="alignnone" width="300"] Breckness near Stromness[/caption] Yet again we are back at the Castle of Breckness looking for the missing piece of our rune stone. The whole thing started back in 2001, when Chris and I were very young. We were having this romantic walk along the shore near Stromness, and came to the ruins of Breckness. As the sun was setting, Christopher's special eye for archaeology picked up on the way that the golden rays were shining across some vertical lines on a piece of old red sandstone that had tumbled down from a stone wall. "Are these runes?" he asked me. "I have no idea" the 22-year-old me replied. I would later go on to study runes at university, because it did indeed turn out that we had found...

Read More

A rouge Viking at Swanbister, Orphir

On Christmas Eve we went to explore at Swanbister bay in Orphir. Our first stop was by a remarkable mound in the landscape, known as the Hillock of Breakna. It seems to contain an Iron Age broch, and a depression in the middle seems to indicate that it has been dug at some point in the past. I find the history of its exploration just as interesting as the place itself. What makes this one so fascinating is that a hundred or so years ago, in the Victorian period when people were very interested in all things Viking and were keenly reading Old Norse sagas in newly available English translations, folk got very excited by going out to look for the places mentioned in the saga. Actually, this interest started...

Read More

Medieval castle with connections to Saint Magnus – and a sea monster!

29th December 2015 Sandwiched between two stormy nights with gale force 80 mph at its fiercest, we were given a beautiful golden day basking in ten degrees and low sunshine. We decided on Holm in the East Mainland – the parish which is spelled “Holm” but pronounced as “ham” because it comes from the Old Norse name for a harbour. The estate of Paplay is very old land, having belonged to the earldom and later the bishopric. That name derives from “Papa-byli”, meaning the settlement of the Papar – which was a name for Christian priests or monks in Old Norse. There are other “pap-“ names in Orkney, too. Paplay has deep connections to the Orkneyinga Saga. The land was part of the dowry for Saint Magnus’s sister, and when Saint Magnus...

Read More

Castle of Weems at Sandwick in South Ronaldsay

I often find myself attracted by place-names. The “Castle of Weems” – Is it a castle? ‘Castle’ can mean so many things, from a natural sea stack to a broch mound to the remains of a medieval fortified structure. And “Weems” is a Gaelic place-name, which is unusual in Orkney, meaning an underground built structure or cellar. Canmore has it down as a broch site. On Christmas day, of all days, we came down to Sandwick in South Ronaldsay to investigate. Sanwick is a tranquil sandy bay overlooking the Pentland Firth and the abandoned island of Swona. Above the sand there are the most beautiful boulders in red sandstone, showing up the most spectacular swirls and patterns. The boys had fun stacking stones on top of one another, finding the perfect...

Read More

A green spindle whorl from Harray

Christopher was out fieldwalking today, seeking out landowners to ask permission to use their fields for the new community fieldwalking project that he's involved in. Fieldwalking is a nice way of screening large areas of land for potential new sites, and here in Orkney you often come across scatterings of flint and other archaeology in the spring when fields are ploughed. Farmers often end up with collections of artifacts in their home, in jars and drawers and on mantelpieces. And today was just so: The landowner produced something he had found, and kept safe. A beautiful, medieval Norse spindle whorl, made in gorgeous green steatite....

Read More